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List of components provided:

1 plastic case 335 x 250 4 UV tubes 8 watts 30 cm 8 tube holders (2 per tube) 4 starters (4 to 22 watts)

1 printed circuit with reflective white face

2 watts 15 watts 220 V (riveted on the PCB) 8 self-tapping screws (to fix the tube supports) 60 cm of tinned wire 6/10 mm (tube support connections)

1 plate of foam

1 glass plate 320 x 200

4 circular stickers

1 power cord 2 x 0.75 mm2 L: 1.5 m

4 sheathed wires for ballast connection

You will also need cutting pliers, a soldering iron with solder, a small phillips screwdriver, and double sided (equipment not provided).


1 - Prepare, with tinned wire 6/10 and using a pair of pliers, 16 pieces of about 35 mm

2- Forcing them into the back of the tube supports, in the housings provided for this purpose (2 per support)

3-Put the supports in place by passing the tinned wires in the holes provided on the circuit board. The supports must, of course be in opposite for each tube. Secure them with the self-tapping screws in the ad-hoc holes.

4- Now weld the connection wires, and cut off the excess part.

5- Connect the ballasts with the printed circuit using the 4 sheathed wires supplied: in force in the ballasts, and solder at the locations provided opposite.

6- Weld to their location the starters, well plated directly on the circuit board.

7- Finally make the connection of the mains cable between the two ballasts, in the 2 extreme holes, that of the center is intended for an optional optional ground. The electrical assembly is ready for operation. You can place the mounting at the bottom of the suitcase, the ballasts at the bottom.


1) Weld the 8 pipe supports with 16 small rigid wires and screw them with plastic screws, nuts and washers.

2) Position and solder the 4 Starters.

3) Fix the ballasts by putting the connections in the middle of the plate with screw nut + washers metal. Solder wires on the circuit board and connect the other ends into the clamps.

4) Stick self-adhesive feet to the 4 corners of the solder side PCB.

5) Drill a hole in the bottom left side of the bag to put the wire and pass the power cord and solder.

6) Put the plastic protection plate on the ballasts.

7) Lay the glass.

8) Glue the foam inside the hood with glue or double-sided tape (this one is used to press your plate on the artwork).



The exposure time varies according to the thickness, the quality of the resin and the date of manufacture. It is always necessary to test with drops of your plate.

This plan is provided for your information so you can better understand the operation of the assembly, and check your connections on the circuit board. The initial domino no longer exists: the connection is made directly on the support plate.

Final establishment

The 4 self-adhesive circular stamps will be fixed on top of the starters, and will serve as restons for the glass plate.

The foam plate will be glued, using a small piece of double-sided, on the lid of the bag, 1 cm from the front edge. It will serve as a support surface to properly flatten the products to be insolated on the glass, when the case will be closed, during the insolation.

A small notch will be made, using a cutter, on the bottom of the bag, near the joint with the cover, the side of your choice, to allow the passage of the mains cable, in operation.

The tubes will be placed last, just before putting the glass, which remains of course removable. Introduction of the contacts in vertical, and rotation of 90 degrees: the turn is played! It is important not to force, these components are very fragile.

Use: Precautions for use

The sector directly supplies the assembly: do not let your hands (or those of others) get lost on the metal parts when the product will be live!

For a rational and effective use of this insolvent,

As an indication, our tests on presensitized epoxy and a transparent film type MYLAR gave excellent results with a time of 2 minutes 30 sec, a time quite comparable with its big professional sisters. You can control this time using your watch, an external mechanical timer, or add our adapted timer

We remind you of the three stages of successful insolation:

-Well to determine the necessary and sufficient time: to make tests if necessary, with any new product.

-Well the pattern to transfer (film or paper) on the surface to be insolated: hold it with a piece of tape if necessary.

-Make sure your developer is always active and at a good temperature, and quickly reveal after sunstroke, and in dimmed light environment if necessary.

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